Best Gutter Repair in Denver, CO

We use hidden gutter hangers with integral screws rather than spike-and-ferrule hangers — the screw-type hanger uses a 3.5-inch structural screw into the fascia board for dramatically higher pull-out resistance than the original aluminum spike. On reinstalls and new sections, we space hangers every 18 inches rather than the 24-inch maximum to provide additional load margin for debris and ice. On existing sections, we supplement original hangers with additional screwed hangers in the intermediate positions.

We use Geocel 2315 or equivalent butyl rubber gutter sealant — a flexible, paintable product designed specifically for the thermal movement of aluminum gutters. We do not use silicone (which is flexible but does not adhere well to wet or contaminated aluminum and cannot be painted), household caulk (which fails within one season), or roofing cement (which cracks with thermal cycling). Proper joint preparation — cleaning the mating surfaces, removing all old sealant — is as important as the sealant selection. We clean before sealing on every repair.

We use a digital level to measure the actual drop along each 10-foot run — the target is 1/16 to 1/8 inch of fall per foot toward the outlet. On long runs over 40 feet, we typically slope from the center toward outlets at each end to avoid the cumulative drop that would result in the outlet end sitting 2 to 3 inches below the fascia at the far end. We document the measured slopes before and after any repair so you have a reference baseline for future inspections.

The standard 2×3 inch rectangular downspout handles roughly 600 square feet of watershed area. Upgrading to 3×4 inch handles approximately 1,200 square feet. Round 4-inch corrugated handles approximately 1,000 square feet. For homes with large open roof planes, steep pitches that concentrate runoff at a single valley outlet, or in high-intensity rainfall regions, 3×4 inch downspouts or multiple 2×3 inch outlets per run are the appropriate specification. If your gutters overflow during moderate rain despite being clear, capacity is the problem.

.027-inch thick aluminum is the standard for most residential applications — it does not rust, it comes pre-finished in dozens of colors, and it is formed seamlessly on-site to any run length. Galvanized steel is heavier and stronger but must be painted to prevent rust and is typically used only on commercial applications. Copper is the premium residential option — soldered seams, 50-year lifespan, develops an attractive patina — but costs 4 to 6 times as much as aluminum and requires skilled installation. For most residential repairs and replacements, quality aluminum at .032-inch thickness is our recommendation.

The minimum standard is 6 feet of horizontal distance from the foundation, discharging onto a splash block or into a buried drain tile system. In regions with expansive clay soils — Houston, Dallas, Atlanta — we recommend a minimum of 10 feet with positive grade sloping away from the house over the entire discharge zone. For homes where landscaping prevents adequate surface discharge, underground drain tile extending to a pop-up emitter in a lower area of the yard is the correct permanent solution. Apex includes downspout extension and splash block placement in all repair and replacement projects.

Yes — gutters are cleared of debris before any repair work so we can properly inspect all joints and fasteners.

Annual cleaning and a joint seal inspection every two to three years prevents most major repairs and extends the system's life significantly.

Yes — if multiple sections need work, we price the job as a whole rather than per-repair, which typically saves money.

Repair now is almost always cheaper. Failed gutters can cause fascia rot, soffit damage, and foundation issues that cost far more to fix.

We inspect every section, clear debris, reseal joints, re-fasten brackets, adjust pitch, reposition downspouts, and flow-test the system before we leave.